Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'First Reference'

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut may be one of the most important modern luxury sport watches on the market.

The Reference 5060J, launched in 1996 for the 20th anniversary of the Nautilus, was a sort of transitional watch. Borrowing features from the Nautilus but doing away with the famed case “ears” of that porthole-inspired model and adding lugs, it provided the basis for the Reference 5060A in 1997, the first model actually bearing the Aquanaut name. The Aquanaut would go on to form the basis of a full collection of luxury sports watches that provided the entry point into the Patek Philippe catalog.

This particular Aquanaut hails from this legendary reference. Dating to the early 2000s, this piece features a 36mm stainless steel case with a satin finished bezel and polished facets. Accompanied by a signed screw-down crown, sapphire crystal and 120 meters of water resistance, this is an easy choice for the go-anywhere, do-anything steel sports watch from the maison.

Featuring a stern black colorway with signature hobnail texturing, the luminous dial houses a set of applied ‘Arabic’ indices, block markers, a ‘stick’ handset and a date window at 3 o’clock with a thinner, cursive font as opposed to the thicker, bolder font in later References. Another distinguishable feature is the closed, screw caseback protecting the self-winding Calibre 330 SC packed with 30 jewels, offering 48 hours of power reserve and a handy quick-set date mechanism

In great condition throughout showing light signs wear, this piece delivers all the class of a neo vintage Patek Philippe sports piece.

If a luxury sports watch in the perfect size is what you’re after, stop right here —you've found it.